Ryan’s Table – “Springtime in Provence” in Honolulu

Ryan’s Table – “Springtime in Provence” in Honolulu

Columnist Ryan Tatsumoto, October 7, 2016 Issue

Poisson du jour, Capres and Citron

Ryan Tatsumoto
Hawai‘i Herald Columnist

Ryan Tatsumoto is a clinical pharmacist by day. In his off-hours, however, he and his wife enjoy seeking out perfect marriages of food and wine. Ryan is a certified sommelier and a certified specialist of wine. The Windward O‘ahu resident also writes a column for San Francisco’s Nichi Bei Weekly called “The Gochiso Gourmet.”

Spring is in the air . . . especially at Chef Mavro, the eponymous restaurant operated by Chef George Mavrothalassitis for the past 19 years. And, once again to welcome the arrival of spring, Chef Mavro recently hosted his biannual dinner for generous, regular supporters of Hawai‘i Public Radio. While I donate to HPR (and PBS Hawai‘i) every year, my annual contribution certainly doesn’t merit an invitation to these dinners. But having friends like Carol and Edmund Kellett, who donate the wines served at these dinners, does garner an invitation to these feasts.

Foie Gras ala Cuillere aux Agrumes

Is Mavrothalassitis Really French?

Chef Mavro’s father was Greek and his mother was Italian. Both of them relocated to France early in their childhoods, however. Their son, George Mavrothalassitis, was born and raised in the southern France port city of Marseille, the capital of Provence. After training with the Troisgros brothers, Gerard Vie and Alain Senderens, Chef Mavro operated his own restaurants in Marseille and Cassis until moving to Hawai‘i nearly 30 years ago to work at La Mer in the Halekulani and, later, the Four Seasons Resorts. In Chef Mavro’s view, the port of Marseille and Hawai‘i shared many similarities. He recalls his first morning in Hawai‘i and inhaling the view from Waikïkï Beach to Diamond Head and saying to himself, “That’s it! I’m home!”

Ten years later, Chef Mavro opened

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Dome de Chevre Frais al Fraises Poivre Vert

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